Italy’s vast gastronomic wealth warrants celebrating with a lively dinner party. But where do you begin? From the aperitivo through to the digestivo, options for wines and their perfect pairings abound.
From fashion and art to soccer and sports cars, Italy’s claims to fame are countless. Above all, it is the culture and way of life that entices. Intrinsic to this is the cuisine. Each region, and often each town, has its own unique specialty, shape of pasta or way of cooking polenta.
The same can be said of Italy’s wines. Some grape varieties, like Sangiovese and Barbera are diffused throughout Italy but many are limited to a particular corner.
As such, it is impossible to taste through Italy in a single evening. Perhaps a series of Italian nights are in order? These can be organized by regional themes – say Piedmont one month and Sicily the next. Or each may include a combination of regions that takes you and your friends on a tasty tour from north to south.
A traditional Italian meal includes several courses. The fancier it is, the more there might be. Anything less than four feels like skimping though.
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The Aperitivo (Snacks)
A time-honored custom in Italy, the aperitivo is as essential to the meal as the meal itself. It serves as a transition between the work day and the serious business of sitting down to dinner (or lunch). It stimulates conversation as much as the appetite. A hunger-inducing Aperol spritz, Negroni or glass of sparkling wine may be accompanied by small snacks to fend off starvation.This could be as modest as a bowl of chips. But even at the aperitivo, regional specialties crop up. In Le Marche on the Adriatic coast, Olive all’Ascolana (stuffed and deep-fried green olives) may be offered alongside a Pecorino – an herbal white wine not the cheese- while In Sicily, panelle (chickpea fritters) might be washed down with a crisp Grillo.
A Spritz is a Venetian wine-based cocktail, commonly served as an aperitif in Northeast Italy. It consists of prosecco, digestive bitters and soda water.
Antipasti (Appetizer)
Once a tavola, antipasti or starters begin to appear. These are a bit more substantial than the previous nibbles but still just a few bites to quell the built-up hunger.
You could combine the aperitivo and the antipasti.Take inspiration from Emilia-Romagna. Its frothy red Lambruscos befit a generous salumi board replete with sweet yet salty Prosciutto di Parma.
If you are hosting an all-Piemontese night – classic starters like bagna cauda and vitello tonnato work well with local whites such as Arneis and Gavi. And when carne crudo joins the mix, Dolcetto is a must.
Bagna cauda ( A hot dish made from garlic and anchovies, originating in Piedmont) and Vitello tonnato ( A Piedmontese dish of cold, sliced veal covered with a creamy, mayonnaise-like sauce that has been flavored with tuna) are best served with the whites.
To toast the northeast region of Friuli, pour its flagship white - Friulano - with a cheesy pumpkin flan (sformato di zucca). For a less complicated dish, look to Campania where its caprese salad of tomato, fresh mozzarella and basil begs for a bright and textured Falanghina.
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Scents of green almond and white blossom meld with distinct pear and peach flavors. Lusciously textured but refreshing. A natural with caprese salad, tomato bruschetta and prawn crudo. Serve 8 to 9 degrees Celsius (45 to 48 degrees Fahrenheit).
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Primi (First course)
The first ‘proper’ course, primipiatti include pasta, risotto, gnocchi and even soup. Above all, the sauce will dictate what to drink. One strategy is to match the structure of the dish with the structure of the wine. For example, tangy tomato-based sauces find an ideal foil in Italy’s high acid reds - particularlythose made from Sangiovese.
Another approach is to counter any rich concoctions with a vibrant white. Think Rome’s creamy carbonara with a zippy Frascati or mouth wateringly lemony Bellone.
As a final tactic, duplicating flavors can bring out the best in both partners. Verdicchio’s salinity goes well with briny seafood. A basil-y Genovese pesto will coax out Vermentino’s herbal nuances. And an earthy Nebbiolo is divine with mushrooms.
White truffle and Cigliuti Barbaresco DOCG Serraboella 2018.
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From a cool, wet vintage, Cigliuti’s 2018 is already approachable. It is gorgeously fragrant as moist earth nuances mingle with raspberry, mint and pepper. Elegant tannins caress the palate. The ultimate companion would be shaved truffle or fresh porcini risotto but really any mix of wild mushrooms will do splendidly. Serve 18 to 20 degrees Celsius (64 to 68 degrees Fahrenheit).
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Secondi (Main Course)
In Italy, the main course is often meat centric. Nevertheless, fish shouldn’t be ruled out. A whole roasted mild white fish like Branzino drizzled with lemon and olive oil presents an impressive backdrop for so many of Italy’s top whites – from the Veneto’s Soave to Mount Etna’s Carricante.
If meat and red are musts, this is the occasion to pull out one of the country’s big guns. Classic matches include Barolo with Brasato – beef braised in Barolo and Aglianico with Spezzatino di Agnello (stewed lamb). In Tuscany, Chianti Classico or Brunello is found alongside its famous Bistecca alla Fiorentina – essentially a porterhouse steak grilled rare and seasoned only with salt, pepper and olive oil.
Porchetta is a more rustic centerpiece. This slow roasted suckling pig stuffed with herbs and complete with crackling can take on a savory Montepulciano from Abruzzo or a hearty Cannonau (aka Grenache) from Sardinia. 
Bistecca alla Fiorentina - one of the most popular dishes of Tuscan cuisine with Querciabella Chianti Classico DOCG Riserva 2013.
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A complex expression of red currant, blackberry, grilled herbs and roasted coffee. The dense core is buoyed by succulent acidity and framed with chalky tannins. Sturdy yet refined enough for Bistecca alla Fiorentina. Serve 16 to 18 degrees Celsius (61 to 65 degrees Fahrenheit).
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Formaggi (Cheese)
In a multi-course meal, cheese is often served after the main and before dessert. It provides a moment to linger over the previous wine or open a bottle of something new. While a selection (say Taleggio, Montasio and Castelmagno) is welcome, a single yet substantial chunk of well-aged Parmigiano-Reggiano can’t be beat. This is my favorite way to enjoy Amarone.
For many, Amarone doesn’t go along with many dishes due to its powerful characteristic. Though, Amarone and Parmigiano can tangle beautifully when being served together.
Dolce (Dessert)
Don’t even think about skipping this course. Italy is responsible for the world’s most beloved desserts. In terms of pairing with wine, sweet with sweet is the rule of thumb, which means indulging in some of Italy’s most spectacular vinous treats. Tiramisù is traditionally matched with Marsala and panna cotta reaches new heights when paired with Brachetto d'Acqui – a sweet sparkling red bursting with the purest of red summer berries. A plate of home-baked cantucci or biscotti and a glass of Vin Santo is an elegant way to finish, but please don’t dip these cookies in the wine.
The Italian traditional sweets Tiramisu (left), and panna cotta (right).
My perfect Italian night ends with cannoli. A Sicilian specialty, this tube-shaped fried pasta is stuffed with fresh sheep milk ricotta and dried fruit. Crafted from sundried Zibibbo (aka Moscato di Alessandria) grapes, Donnafugata’s Ben Ryé makes for the most decadent partner.
Cannoli with Donnafugata’s Ben Ryé, Passito di Pantelleria 2018.
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Fig, raisin, and caramel are countered by fresh orange zest in this unctuous, syrupy elixir. Serve 14 degrees Celsius (57 degrees Fahrenheit).
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After all that extravagance, a digestivo – grappa or amaro – will help you digest.
Buon appetito e salute!
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